Tulle Kitchen Scrubby

Tulle Kitchen Scrubby

Let me tell you about my most used handmade item- the tulle kitchen scrubby. I’ve been using these for YEARS to scrub and wash dirty dishes. Eventually {when I finally realized I’m an adult and allowed to make these decisions}, I completely ditched sponges in lieu of the tulle kitchen scrubby.

These could not be easier to make! My version is as simple as it gets- three rounds of double crochet to make a flat circle. There are tons of scrubby patterns out there, so don’t be afraid to experiment and find out what works for you.

Favorite the Tulle Kitchen Scrubby on Ravelry to bookmark the pattern.

These tough little guys last for a year {or more!} and make wonderful gifts for your friends and family. One spool of 3″ tulle can make two full scrubbies, with a little bit remaining to make some fun multi-colored scrubbies.

When your scrubby gets dirty, just toss it {okay, safely place it in the top rack or silverware caddy} in your dishwasher and wash like normal with your dishes. I sanitize at least one scrubby with every cycle!

The Materials

  • 3″ roll of tulle (makes two full scrubbies)
  • J (6.0 mm) hook or size that is comfortable for you
  • tapestry needle for weaving in ends (find them at Joann’s)

Although I used to buy tulle at Joann’s and Michael’s, it seems that they no longer carry the 3″ rolls. The best place I’ve found for 3″ tulle is Hobby Lobby. I also found it on a site called Paper Mart– though I have not ordered from this site before.

I LOVE my Clover Amour crochet hooks. You can get them from your favorite big box store or Amazon as a discounted set. These finishing needles from Susan Bates are essential for weaving in the tulle ends. Joann’s has them or you can find them on Amazon.

The Pattern

dc = double crochet {American crochet terms}

Begin with a magic circle.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), dc 12 into circle- 12 dc. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), dc 2 in each dc around- 24 dc. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc 1 in first dc, dc 2 in next dc. Repeat from * around- 36 dc. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc. Cut tulle and fasten off.

Enjoy making all the scrubbies! I’m making one each day in the month of February to use up my tulle stash. I’m looking forward to having a stockpile of these guys for myself and for quick gifts!

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

Basics Series

Basics Series

Happy Friday everyone! This week I rounded out two YouTube tutorial series on the Knitty Natty channel: Basic Knits and Basic Crochet.

When I designed these two series I had a few audiences in mind. The first was my students at the elementary school where I host an after-school knit and crochet club. The second was capital “K” Knitters who want to learn to crochet; and the third was capital “C” Crocheters who want to learn to knit.

There are a million beginner tutorials out there- so why add my own to the mix? As a teacher, I wanted the videos I refer my students to watch to have the exact same language that I’m using when I teach during my club. As a learner, I know that sometimes I “click” with certain instructors and their style. So the more options out there to watch and learn, the better!

Something that makes each of these tutorials unique is they are totally all-encompassing. When I teach you the knit stitch, I don’t just show you the steps to make a stitch and then stop. I demonstrate starting the row, ending the row, working the first row vs. all other rows, tips for working multiple rows, and show both English and Continental styles.

You can find each of these skills in the Basic Knits Series.

Slip Knot: http://bit.ly/slipknotKN
Long Tail Cast On: http://bit.ly/longtailKN
Knit Stitch (English): http://bit.ly/KnitEnglishKN
Knit Stitch (Continental): http://bit.ly/KnitContinentalKN
Purl Stitch (English): http://bit.ly/PurlEnglishKN
Purl Stitch (Continental): http://bit.ly/PurlContinentalKN
Knit + Purl (English): http://bit.ly/KnitandPurlEnglishKN
Knit + Purl (Continental): http://bit.ly/KnitandPurlContinentalKN
Basic Bind Off: http://bit.ly/BasicBindOffKN

In each of the crochet videos, I start with a chain. This way you can truly understand how the foundation of the stitch is built. I go through the first row and then show how the following rows will be different. I really focus on the beginning and end of these rows because I remember how tricky that was for me as a new crocheter. Each crochet video is offered in both right and left-handed views.

You can find each of these skills in the Basic Crochet Series.

Slip Knot: http://bit.ly/slipknotKN
Chain (right-handed): http://bit.ly/chainrightKN
Chain (left-handed): http://bit.ly/chainleftKN
Single Crochet (right-handed): http://bit.ly/singlecrochetrightKN
Single Crochet (left-handed): http://bit.ly/singlecrochetleftKN
Half Double Crochet (right-handed): http://bit.ly/hdcrightKN
Half Double Crochet (left-handed): http://bit.ly/hdcleftKN
Double Crochet (right-handed): http://bit.ly/DCRightKN
Double Crochet (left-handed): http://bit.ly/DCLeftKN
Triple/Treble Crochet (right-handed): http://bit.ly/TRCRightKN
Triple/Treble Crochet (left-handed): http://bit.ly/TRCLeftKN

My hope is that these videos will serve as a reference material for new knitters and crocheters. I had so much fun creating these basic stitch videos. Now I have a whole new level of respect for creators who spend most of their time making tutorials. Breaking down a technique takes a lot of thought and prep! Since I’m an English knitter and right-handed crocheter, creating the Continental and left-handed videos really pushed me to expand my skills.

Maybe you are multi-craftual already and don’t need to brush up on the basics. For you, knowledgeable crafter, I will have more tutorials coming soon. Just you wait!

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

The Spincycle Hat

The Spincycle Hat

A few months ago on a trip to Washington state, I stopped in a LYS {local yarn store} seeking out what else… locally made yarn. This was a well-stocked shop, so I had my options. But then I saw it… SPINCYCLE! Oh the holy grail of yarn! {This was around the time Andrea Mowry released The Throwback and Nightshift patterns out of Spincycle.}

If you’ve ever picked up a skein of Spincycle, you know that it’s a special yarn. What Kate and Rachel started as a small-batch hand-spinning business has grown into full-blown in-house-mill production! These fabulous ladies design, dye, spin, and package their yarns in their warehouse in Bellingham, WA. Their fiber comes from American farms primarily in Colorado, Wyoming, and South Dakota- cool!

We know that yarns so carefully sourced can come with a higher price tag- one that is certainly justified. So I agonized to pick out just one perfect skein of Spincycle. Now I’m not typically a yellow person, but when I saw the name “Beets and Bears” wrapped around skein so distinctly the color of Dwight Schrute’s {awful} button up shirts, I had to have it!

The journey from yarn to hat wasn’t a quick one. I had to toy with it. Swatch a few times. Cast on, rip out {with mohair!}, and cast on again. After all, I wanted to get it right with my precious yarn! I almost gave up on it several times. But in the end it was worth it. So I give you: The Spincycle Hat.


This pattern is written as an adult small {18 1/2″ hat circumference, to fit a 20-21″ head}. Adjust the size by adding or taking away stitches in multiples of 8. The crown decreases will work out for any size, as long as you have a multiple of 8.


  • 1 200-yard skein of Spincycle Versus DK-weight wool
  • 1 50-gram skein of lace weight mohair
  • US 5 (3.75mm) needles to work in the round


4 .5 sts per inch in 2×2 rib, stretched width-wise with Spincycle and mohair held together. {Or 4 sts per inch after blocking.}

Special Stitches:

RT | Right Twist | Knit two together, do not slide off left needle. Knit first stitch again. Slide both stitches off left needle. Video here.

Four-Round Repeat:

  1. (K2, p2)- repeat around.
  2. Repeat rnd 1.
  3. Repeat rnd 1.
  4. (K2, p2, RT, p2)- repeat around.

The pattern begins!

Cast on 88 stitches {long-tail is good} with mohair and Spincycle held together. Join in the round.

Work the Four-Round Repeat 15 times total (7 inches), or until you have reached the crown of the head.

Decreases: these will work for any multiple of 8. The number of stitches cast on divided by 8 will equal the number of decreases in each decrease round.

  1. (K2, p2, k2, p2tog)- repeat around. – 11 stitches decreased.
  2. (K2, p2, k2, p1)- repeat around. Or just knits the knits and purl the purls!
  3. (K2tog, p2, k2, p1)- repeat around. – 11 stitches decreased.
  4. (K1, p2, RT, p1)- repeat around.
  5. (K1, p2tog, k2, p1)- repeat around. – 11 stitches decreased.
  6. (K1, p1, k2, p1)- repeat around.
  7. (Ssk, k1, ssk)- repeat around. – 22 stitches decreased.
  8. (K1, RT)- repeat around.
  9. Knit.
  10. (K3, k2tog, k1)- repeat to last three sts, k3. – 5 stitches decreased.
  11. (K2tog, k3)- repeat to last three sts, k2tog, k1. – 6 stitches decreased.
  12. Knit.
  13. (K2tog)- repeat around. – 11 stitches remain.

Cut yarn and draw through remaining stitches. Weave in ends. Wet block, squeeze in a towel, and give the hat a good stretch before you lay it flat to dry. Top with a pom pom if desired!

As always, my free patterns are able to be free because they are written in simple form, one size, and not tested by multiple knitters. Although I try my best to make the pattern error-free, there could be some mistakes. Kindly let me know and I will correct them!

I hope you enjoy The Spincycle Hat and are able to covet your previous skeins even more in accessory form. If you share your makes on Instagram, make sure to tag me {@knittynatty} and use the hashtag #thespincyclehat.

Favorite or queue The Spincycle Hat on Ravelry here.

Love in Stitches,

Knitty Natty

How I knit my socks… Toe Up

On a recent post I asked my Instagram followers if they’d like to see my “recipe” for sock knitting. I expected maybe one person to say they’d like that, but I received many words of affirmation for this post!

These socks use Lolodidit’s “Helping Hippos” colorway.

So here is the secret sauce… how I knit my socks: Toe Up Edition*.

This is my toe up recipe for my current go-to socks. I can just pick up a ball of yarn and my US 1 (2.25mm) needles and go to town. No physical pattern required. Don’t worry fledgling sock knitters; I knit my first sock pre-Ravelry {circa 2006} so I’ve had lots of time to try things out and memorize my favorite sock.

For comparison, I wear a women’s size US 8 shoe (in tennis shoes) and have a average to narrow foot. These are the counts I use for what I consider to be a typical Indie-dyed sock yarn base: 75% superwash merino, 25% nylon. This base is quite a bit thinner than commercial sock yarns or 80%/20% bases, so if you’re a fan of those go to my Quickie Socks recipe.

*I plan to have a Cuff Down version and have already released a Quickie Socks version.


  • 1 100g ball of 75/25 superwash merino nylon fingering weight {I hand wind mine into two equal balls with the help of a scale.}
  • US 1 2.25mm 32″ circular needles {Chiagoo Red Lace is my preferred needles of the moment.}
  • A handful of light bulb stitch markers
  • Progress keeper
  • Scissors and tapestry needle for weaving in ends.


  • k2tog- knit two together
  • kf&b- knit front and back in same stitch.
  • n1- needle one (for magic loop method)
  • n2- needle two (for magic loop method)
  • sts- stitches
  • tbl- through back loop

Before you begin…

I like to knit my socks in tandem, that is I start one sock, then start the other. I make the toe of one sock, then the toe of the other. They chase each other, alternating all the way to the end. This way I finish the socks at roughly the same time and I usually have a sock that is at easy place I can just pick up and knit.

In order to knit socks this way, I have two sets of those 32″ US 1 needles {no two-at-a-time juggling over here!} and I split my yarn into 50-gram balls. I purchased a kitchen scale from Target long ago that I have never used for food. As I hand wind the yarn from my Amish swift, I occasionally weigh the ball on the scale. Voila! Two equal(ish) balls of yarn!

I knit my socks using the Magic Loop Method and write my patterns this way as well. Basically, magic loop is just dividing your stitches- half your stitches on Needle One (n1) and half your stitches on Needle Two (n2). If you don’t like to knit using magic loop, don’t worry! You can place a marker halfway through your round to indicate where “n1” ends and “n2” begins.


First, cast on 32 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast On. You’ll have 16 stitches on each needle.

Knit one round, taking care to knit the stitches on the second needle through the back loop. {I have learned that there is a new method of Judy’s Magic Cast On that doesn’t require this, but I’m still doing it the old way.}

Begin increase rounds.

  1. K1, kf&b, knit to last two stitches on n1, kf&b, k1. Repeat for n2. – 4 sts increased.
  2. Knit.

Repeat the two increase rounds above until you have 64 total stitches or 32 stitches on each needle.

Toe complete!


The foot is a breeze! You just knit and knit until you reach the point you need to start your heel. While I can’t give you the perfect formula to find out how many inches you need to fit your foot {this takes many pairs of socks to figure out} I can give you some tips on how to make sure your socks match!

This is where those light bulb stitch markers come into play. As you knit your first round on the foot, place a marker in the round below– the last round of the toe. Now you know that the round above the stitch marker is Round One of the foot. Huzzah!

I like to mark the rounds of my foot every 20 rounds, so I place markers in Rnds 20, 40, and 60 of my foot. Including the one that marks the last round of the toe, I need a total of four markers. I just hook those markers into the first marker so they’re there when I need them.

Some people like to mark every 10 rounds- it’s up to you! Do what makes sock knitting most convenient for your lifestyle. Socks are one of the most convenient projects.

My foot is complete with a total of 65 rounds. I know I need 65 rounds with this base (75/25) because I’ve recently made lots of socks in similar yarn. When I make socks for family members, I keep track of how many rounds they need for their foot on my Ravelry project page. When I need to knit them another pair of socks, I refer to Ravelry!

I keep a progress keeper (the cookie from Sucre Sucre Miniatures) on my sock to mark progress for the week. I find this extremely motivating! Since I record podcasts on Wednesdays, I move my progress keeper every Wednesday. It’s fun to see how much of a sock you can knit in one week!


I am a Fish Lips Kiss Heel girl. I am a big supporter of the contrast color heel, even when I’m not knitting self-striping socks. These are my quirks. I invite you try them at least once!

You can find the Fish Lips Kiss Heel on Ravelry from the Sox Therapist for just $1. In the pattern, she has a wealth of information on how to find the correct placement for you heel. {You have permission to skip that for now if it overwhelms you. I did.} What I love about this heel is that it’s quick! It’s also symmetrical which means it works for toe-up and cuff-down down socks alike.

Since we already have our stitches divided in half, we can start the heel on n1. When joining the contrast color, I like to cross old (main color) over new (heel color) so I don’t have a gap in the corner of the heel.

Here is the first row of the FLK heel completed. Find the pattern here.

Here I have completed the first half of the heel. Since I have 32 stitches for the heel, I’ve got 10 twin stitches on either side, plus two unwrapped stitches on the outside, and 10 unwrapped stitches in the middle.

Completed heel with two twin stitches on either side.

Slip these twin stitches back to the left-hand needle. This is not part of the Fish Lips Kiss Heel instructions. I believe she has you do another round before you take care of these twin stitches, but we need to bring our main color back!

Now you’re ready to knit with the main color again. It’s right there! Cut your contrast color, pick up the main color, and knit each of the twin stitches as if they are one stitch.

Carry on knitting across the row and knit the other two twin stitches as if they are one stitch. We’re back to straight knitting again for the leg!

Heel complete!


Sometimes I knit short legs, sometimes I knit long legs. It all depends on my mood, the amount of yarn I have, and how many days I have left until the end of the month. {I try to start and finish a pair of socks each month.}

This pair I knit shorter legs {40 rounds}, but a standard length would look something like 60 rounds. This is before the ribbing.

Again, I place a marker in the last round of the heel. Then another one on Round 20.

Forty rounds for the leg complete!


My cuffs seem to follow the path of the leg. Sometimes I go for classic ribbing like 1×1 or 2×2. Frequently I’ll throw in a twisted 1×1 rib for fun {and regret it whilst knitting}. This pair I got a little crazy and went for the neat but impractical 3×1 rib. Who knows what I was feeling the day I started this ribbing? {I’m wearing a different pair of short leg socks with 3×1 ribbing and they seem to be staying up alright!}

Knit 20 rounds in your choice of ribbing.

Cuff complete!

Binding Off

I used to be a cuff down girl. I still knit socks this way on occasion (usually when designing), so I have the stretchy cast-on and kitchener bind off down pat. It took me my first few pairs of toe-up socks to figure out a bind off that works for me.

Set Up (work only once):

  1. Knit two stitches in pattern.
  2. Insert left needle into the back of both stitches.
  3. K2tog tbl.

Repeat the following:

  1. Knit next stitch in pattern.
  2. Place yarn in back if it is not already.
  3. Insert left needle into the back of both stitches.
  4. K2tog tbl.

Steps 1-4 if the next stitch is KNIT:

The key to this bind off is that you’re knitting the stitch in pattern, whether knit or purl, but you’re always putting your yarn in back to knit the stitches together. Repeat steps 1-4 until you have one stitch remaining.

Steps 1-4 if the next stitch is PURL:

Everyone has a different method to repair the stair step-like gap that occurs when we knit in the round. I like to put my left needle into the first bound off stitch from the round. Then I knit the stitch as one. Finally lift the second stitch over the first stitch on the needle like a classic bind off. Cut yarn and pull through all the way.

See how nice and stretchy this bind off is!


Weave in ends. Make sure NOT to weave any ends on bottom of the foot- ouch! Take care to weave in the contrast color heel to its same color.

I wash my socks with cool water and Soak formula. Then I rinse them and squeeze them dry in a towel.

I have found that blocking my socks on wooden blockers always makes them look nice. {I get mine at DFW Fiber Fest, but the same vendor sells on eBay!} I just do this the first time, not every time I was them after that.

All done!

Did you know that wool socks don’t need to be washed every time you wear them? Before you say, “EW!”… wool is naturally anti-microbial, so your socks won’t get stinky from a normal day’s wear. I just take off my hand-knit socks and let them air out overnight. I probably wear mine 4-5 times before they get another Soak bath. I know that Molly, from A Homespun House will wear hers 17 times!

Last year I knit 18 pairs of socks. I expect my 2019 recipe might look different than my 2018 recipe. I’m eager to try the afterthought heel to see how the fit compares to the Fish Lips Kiss Heel. I’ve also considered dropping down to a 60-stitch foot and leg to see if I like that better. Finding the right sock fit is a life long journey.

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

Quickie Socks

I’ve discovered the most amazing thing… how to knit the fastest socks in the world. Socks that you can still wear in shoes, but make amazingly squishy house socks, too. The secret is in the formula… 80% merino, 20% nylon. Boom.

I stumbled up the Quickie Socks by pure accident when I started a pair of socks out of Knitted Wit’s Victory Sock base. I cast on with my usual US 1 needles and 64 stitches and my sock turned out HUGE! So I went down to 56 stitches… still too big. Then I went to 48 stitches and it was perfect. Socks on 48 stitches fly!


  • 100 grams of an 80/20 sock yarn- so plump!
  • US 2 (2.75mm) needles- I like magic loop on 32″ circulars.
  • Darning needle, light bulb stitch markers, scissors, and other common notions.


My gauge with this yarn and needle size is roughly 7 stitches per inch. When I use what I consider a “typical sock yarn” in a 75/25 base, I get 8 stitches per inch.


1. Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 24 stitches (12 per needle).


3. Increase every other round as follows:

  • Rnd 1: K1, kf&b, knit to last two sts on first needle, kf&b, k1. Repeat for second needle.- 4 sts increased.
  • Rnd 2: Knit.

4. Keep on increasing until you get to 48 stitches. My foot is narrow, so the 7″ circumference created by these 48 stitches is perfect for me. You might need 56 or 64 stitches. Just keep increasing until you reach the desired circumference!

5. Knit the foot until you’re ready to knit the heel. I wear a women’s 8 shoe and I only needed 61 rounds in this thicker base to reach my heel. {With 75/25 I need 68 rounds from toe to heel.} I like to put a lightbulb stitch marker in the last round of the toe, and every 20 rounds after that to make it easy to count rounds and match my two socks.

6. Work the Fish Lips Kiss Heel. This is my current favorite heel. It’s so quick and easy to work with any stitch count. With my 48 stitches I had 24 stitches for the heel. On the first pass, I had 7 twin stitches on each side, 8 unwrapped stitches in the middle, and 1 unwrapped stitch on each end.

The pattern costs just $1! You have my permission to skip through the sizing pages (if you don’t need them) and carry on with pattern around page 8.

7. Knit 40 rounds for the leg. Again, I like to use lightbulb stitch markers to mark the last row of the heel and each 20 rounds after that. I know some people like to mark every 10 rounds!

8. Knit 15 rounds of twisted 1×1 rib. I like to change this up depending on my mood when I knit the first sock. Sometimes it’s 2×2 rib, sometimes regular 1×1- the ribbing is up to you, but 15 rounds does the trick!

9. Stretchy Bind Off. I like to do a stretchy bind off as follows.

  • Knit the first two stitches in pattern.
  • Move yarn back.
  • Insert left needle into the front of these two stitches and k2tog tbl.

For the rest of the bind of just repeat the following…

  • Knit the next stitch in pattern.
  • Move yarn back (if not already).
  • Insert left needle into the front of these two stitches and k2tog tbl.

10. Weave in those ends! Make sure you don’t weave them in on the bottom of the foot. Not comfy.

That’s it! These are seriously so quick! I think it’s the smaller stitch count than usual. And a bit smaller row count.

Here are some quick maths… usually I have 64 sts with 68 rounds for my foot and 60ish total rounds for the leg, which equals 8,192 stitches (not including the heels or toes) for one sock. However, at 48 sts with 61 rounds for my foot and 55 rounds for the leg… we’re at 5,568. That saves a lot of time!

I hope you enjoy making quick pairs of socks! Maybe for Christmas gifts next year? I will have more sock recipes coming your way soon!

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

Scrappy Granny: Photo Tutorial

Scrappy Granny: Photo Tutorial

Scrappy Granny  is the very first pattern I ever published to Ravelry! Of course, granny squares have been around forever so this pattern is more of a “how I make my granny squares” tutorial.

These tiny grannies use a D (3.25mm) hook and fingering weight yarn. So round up your sock scraps or your advent yarn and let’s get started!

Find the FREE PRINTABLE PDF on Ravelry here.


8-10 grams of fingering weight yarn

3.25mm (D) crochet hook


While my squares took only 8 grams of sock yarn (4-ply superwash merino), yours might take more. Make sure to have at least 10 grams (for insurance) and use your kitchen scale to weigh your scraps!

My squares measure 4.5” wide.


ch = chain

dc = double crochet (US terminology)

rnd = round

sl st = slip stitch


Start with a magic circle. Magic circle (or magic ring) tutorial from the very talented B.hooked Crochet: https://bit.ly/2KBk3Bc

Rnd 1: 

Ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc2 into circle, ch2. * Dc3, ch2; repeat from * two more times. Join with a sl st to top of first ch3.

You just made four dc3 clusters and four ch2 corners- yay!

Rnd 2:

 Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner. 

Slip stitch in these first two dc.

First Corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3. 

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Repeat Corner in each ch2 space around. 
Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Now you have eight dc3 clusters and… well still four ch2 corners. We’re making a square after all. Did you notice those center spaces? Read on!

Rnd 3: 

Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner.  First corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3. 

Center: Dc3 in center space. 

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Alternate Center and Corner around. 
Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Okay, we’re getting into the rhythm now. You should have 12 dc3 clusters- 4 which make the centers and 8 which make the corners. Do you still have four ch2 corner spaces? Good, you’re on the right track.

Rnd 4 and following rnds: 

Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner. First Corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3. 

Centers: Dc3 in each center space. 

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Repeat Centers and Corner around. 
Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Rnd 4 complete.

Round 5:  Repeat Rnd 4. On Rnd 5 you’ll have three center spaces.

Round 6-7:  Repeat Rnd 4. On Rnd 6 you’ll have four center spaces. Rnd 7 has five center spaces. You can continue on this way until you reach the desired size!

My squares have seven total rounds with 5 center spaces. Once you reach the desired size, cut yarn, pull through last stitch, and weave in ends.

I love my sweet, little granny squares! One day I hope to join all of them into a nice lap blanket. Maybe with some light grey? Who knows! You can view all of my Harry Potter themed granny squares on my project page.

You can download the FREE ONE PAGE PRINTABLE of this pattern from Ravelry here.

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty