Quickie Socks

I’ve discovered the most amazing thing… how to knit the fastest socks in the world. Socks that you can still wear in shoes, but make amazingly squishy house socks, too. The secret is in the formula… 80% merino, 20% nylon. Boom.

I stumbled up the Quickie Socks by pure accident when I started a pair of socks out of Knitted Wit’s Victory Sock base. I cast on with my usual US 1 needles and 64 stitches and my sock turned out HUGE! So I went down to 56 stitches… still too big. Then I went to 48 stitches and it was perfect. Socks on 48 stitches fly!


  • 100 grams of an 80/20 sock yarn- so plump!
  • US 2 (2.75mm) needles- I like magic loop on 32″ circulars.
  • Darning needle, light bulb stitch markers, scissors, and other common notions.


My gauge with this yarn and needle size is roughly 7 stitches per inch. When I use what I consider a “typical sock yarn” in a 75/25 base, I get 8 stitches per inch.


1. Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 24 stitches (12 per needle).


3. Increase every other round as follows:

  • Rnd 1: K1, kf&b, knit to last two sts on first needle, kf&b, k1. Repeat for second needle.- 4 sts increased.
  • Rnd 2: Knit.

4. Keep on increasing until you get to 48 stitches. My foot is narrow, so the 7″ circumference created by these 48 stitches is perfect for me. You might need 56 or 64 stitches. Just keep increasing until you reach the desired circumference!

5. Knit the foot until you’re ready to knit the heel. I wear a women’s 8 shoe and I only needed 61 rounds in this thicker base to reach my heel. {With 75/25 I need 68 rounds from toe to heel.} I like to put a lightbulb stitch marker in the last round of the toe, and every 20 rounds after that to make it easy to count rounds and match my two socks.

6. Work the Fish Lips Kiss Heel. This is my current favorite heel. It’s so quick and easy to work with any stitch count. With my 48 stitches I had 24 stitches for the heel. On the first pass, I had 7 twin stitches on each side, 8 unwrapped stitches in the middle, and 1 unwrapped stitch on each end.

The pattern costs just $1! You have my permission to skip through the sizing pages (if you don’t need them) and carry on with pattern around page 8.

7. Knit 40 rounds for the leg. Again, I like to use lightbulb stitch markers to mark the last row of the heel and each 20 rounds after that. I know some people like to mark every 10 rounds!

8. Knit 15 rounds of twisted 1×1 rib. I like to change this up depending on my mood when I knit the first sock. Sometimes it’s 2×2 rib, sometimes regular 1×1- the ribbing is up to you, but 15 rounds does the trick!

9. Stretchy Bind Off. I like to do a stretchy bind off as follows.

  • Knit the first two stitches in pattern.
  • Move yarn back.
  • Insert left needle into the front of these two stitches and k2tog tbl.

For the rest of the bind of just repeat the following…

  • Knit the next stitch in pattern.
  • Move yarn back (if not already).
  • Insert left needle into the front of these two stitches and k2tog tbl.

10. Weave in those ends! Make sure you don’t weave them in on the bottom of the foot. Not comfy.

That’s it! These are seriously so quick! I think it’s the smaller stitch count than usual. And a bit smaller row count.

Here are some quick maths… usually I have 64 sts with 68 rounds for my foot and 60ish total rounds for the leg, which equals 8,192 stitches (not including the heels or toes) for one sock. However, at 48 sts with 61 rounds for my foot and 55 rounds for the leg… we’re at 5,568. That saves a lot of time!

I hope you enjoy making quick pairs of socks! Maybe for Christmas gifts next year? I will have more sock recipes coming your way soon!

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

Scrappy Granny: Photo Tutorial

Scrappy Granny: Photo Tutorial

Scrappy Granny  is the very first pattern I ever published to Ravelry! Of course, granny squares have been around forever so this pattern is more of a “how I make my granny squares” tutorial.

These tiny grannies use a D (3.25mm) hook and fingering weight yarn. So round up your sock scraps or your advent yarn and let’s get started!

Find the FREE PRINTABLE PDF on Ravelry here.


8-10 grams of fingering weight yarn

3.25mm (D) crochet hook


While my squares took only 8 grams of sock yarn (4-ply superwash merino), yours might take more. Make sure to have at least 10 grams (for insurance) and use your kitchen scale to weigh your scraps!

My squares measure 4.5” wide.


ch = chain

dc = double crochet (US terminology)

rnd = round

sl st = slip stitch


Start with a magic circle. Magic circle (or magic ring) tutorial from the very talented B.hooked Crochet: https://bit.ly/2KBk3Bc

Rnd 1: 

Ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc2 into circle, ch2. * Dc3, ch2; repeat from * two more times. Join with a sl st to top of first ch3.

You just made four dc3 clusters and four ch2 corners- yay!

Rnd 2:

 Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner. 

Slip stitch in these first two dc.

First Corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3. 

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Repeat Corner in each ch2 space around. 
Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Now you have eight dc3 clusters and… well still four ch2 corners. We’re making a square after all. Did you notice those center spaces? Read on!

Rnd 3: 

Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner.  First corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3. 

Center: Dc3 in center space. 

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Alternate Center and Corner around. 
Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Okay, we’re getting into the rhythm now. You should have 12 dc3 clusters- 4 which make the centers and 8 which make the corners. Do you still have four ch2 corner spaces? Good, you’re on the right track.

Rnd 4 and following rnds: 

Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner. First Corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3. 

Centers: Dc3 in each center space. 

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Repeat Centers and Corner around. 
Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Rnd 4 complete.

Round 5:  Repeat Rnd 4. On Rnd 5 you’ll have three center spaces.

Round 6-7:  Repeat Rnd 4. On Rnd 6 you’ll have four center spaces. Rnd 7 has five center spaces. You can continue on this way until you reach the desired size!

My squares have seven total rounds with 5 center spaces. Once you reach the desired size, cut yarn, pull through last stitch, and weave in ends.

I love my sweet, little granny squares! One day I hope to join all of them into a nice lap blanket. Maybe with some light grey? Who knows! You can view all of my Harry Potter themed granny squares on my project page.

You can download the FREE ONE PAGE PRINTABLE of this pattern from Ravelry here.

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

Thistleberry Sweater

Thistleberry Sweater

The Thistleberry Sweater pattern  by Coco.Crochet.Lee came out yesterday! I had the pleasure of test crocheting this pattern and I LOVED the experience.

I made the medium size with a C (2.75mm) hook and 9 skeins of Loops and Threads Joy DK. See my Ravelry project page here.

Three Reasons Why You Should Crochet the Thistleberry Sweater RIGHT NOW

  1. It makes the perfect holiday outfit. A sweet ruffle and fancy cables means you can dress this sweater up for your next holiday party!
  2. CROCHET SWEATER ARE SO FAST. Knitters, I’m so serious. Crochet sweaters should be the new thing. I made my sweater way too long (oops!) and still finished it in three weeks.
  3. Learn cables! If you have tried crochet cables yet, this sweater is a great introductory pattern for the technique. The repeat is simple and only on the front of the sweater. My strategy was to make all the other pieces first and then reward myself with some fun and challenging cable work.

I’m definitely a capital K Knitter, but I’ve been crocheting for nearly 10 years. I haven’t ventured out much to try stitches other than the basics. This sweater taught me how to rib and how to cable. I even learned how to count my rows! After the first few rows of the back, I could read my crochet and no longer felt like I had to count each stitch in the fear that I’d forgotten to crochet the last one.

I learned some lessons too and here’s what I would change next time…

  • Try sport or fingering weight. Even though I got close to gauge with my DK-weight yarn, I wasn’t pleased with the fabric. {*Ahem* Could it be because you chose 100% acrylic, Natalie?} I’d love to make this sweater again in a lighter fabric, just not too airy because you don’t want to lose stitch definition in the cables.
  • USE WOOL YOU FOOL. Please, no one ever let me make a 100% acrylic sweater again. Why must I repeatedly learn from my mistakes? Acrylic is the perfect yarn for so many items- blankets, toys, baby gifts. However, acrylic does not give or drape or breathe… which can make you feel like a hot link sausage in your beautiful red cabled sweater.
  • Shaping. Sometimes your body is just not the same blueprint as that sweater pattern you love. When I choose a sweater size that matches my bust measurements, my hips are going to suffocate. Beginning with a larger size and adding a few spaced out decreases at the waist would be a super easy addition to this sweater. Don’t be afraid to modify a pattern to fit your body!

Lee has adjusted the pattern to have a more traditional neckline instead of the off-the-shoulder look that mine resulted in. So don’t worry if you’d like your neckline to be more modest, Lee’s got you covered!

Next winter I want to make one of these in white. Then I’ll really be dreaming of a white Christmas here in Texas!

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty